Guide to Jammu - City of Temples, Places to see, excursions, Shopping and Accommodation
The city of Jammu, besides being the winter capital of the state, is also known as the city of temples. It is believed that Raja Jamboo Lochan originally founded the city in the 14th century. According to the popular legend, while the Raja was hunting one day, he happened to witness a tiger and a goat drinking water side by side from one and the same pond. He was so struck by this extraordinary phenomenon that he decided to build a city at this site so that the strong and weak could live together in peace and mutual tolerance. Eventually, he founded the city, which came to be known as "Jamboo" after his own name. The name later distorted to that of Jammu as it is called now.
In 1730, the city came under the rule of the Dogra king, Raja Dhruv Deva and under the patronage of Dogra rulers; Jammu became an important centre of art and culture, especially the Pahari School of paintings. Today, the beautiful city of Jammu boasts of innumerable temples and shrines, refreshing environs,
| | About Jammu CityJammu, gate way to Kashmir, may not be rich like the valley with the bounties of nature but it offers, nevertheless, resorts of scenic beauty, hill treks, picnic spots, lakes and places of pilgrimage. The shrines of the province especially Vaishno Devi - attract large numbers of pilgrims from all over the world. In 1997, about 60,00000 pilgrims visited this shrine.
Jammu city has long been a centre of Indian pilgrimage and culture, renowned especially for the pahari school of miniature painting which developed in this region. The towering citadels and spires of this unique 'city of temples', perched on a ridge can be viewed from afar. Raghunath Mandir is one of the biggest temple complexes of northern India. Though 130 years old, the complex is remarkable for sacred scriptures, one of the richest collection of ancient texts and manuscripts in its library. Worship of Shakti - is prevalent in all parts of Jammu province. The best known of the Shakti shrines is the one called Vaishno Devi, which has the same place in Jammu as the Amarnath cave has in Kashmir. Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, with the river Tawi flowing alongside, is the place that Raja Jambu Lochan discovered one day while he was on a hunting trip. Legend has it that he came upon a clearing where he saw a sight that left him wonderstruck. A tiger and a goat stood side-by-side, drinking water from the same place in the Tawi River. He was so struck by this unusual sight that he decided to build a city on this land where no living creature seemed to bear enmity towards each other. Little is known of Jammu’s subsequent history until, in 1730 AD, it came under the rule of the Dogra king, Raja Dhruv Deva. The Dogra rulers moved their capital to the present site and Jammu became an important centre of art and culture, especially the Pahari school of paintings. Today, as if in testimony to Raja Jambu Lochan’s vision, the city of Jammu has come to be known as the ‘City Of Temples’. Innumerable temples and shrines, with glittering ‘shikhars’ soaring into the sky, dot the city’s skyline, creating the ambience of a holy and peaceful city. City Information
Temples and ShrinesAmongst the temples in Jammu, the Raghunath Mandir takes pride of place being situated right in the heart of the city.
It consists of a cluster of temples and is the largest temple complex in northern India. Its inner sanctums contain gigantic statues of deities and numerous ‘lingams’. It contains representatives of almost the entire Hindu pantheon, which make it a rare site to behold.
The famous temple of Bawey Wali Mata is inside the Bahu Fort where, every Tuesday and Sunday, pilgrims throng to worship the goddess. A little further away, on a spur opposite the Bahu Fort, overlooking the river Tawi, stands a temple dedicated to Mahamaya, a Dogra heroine who lost her life fourteen centuries ago fighting foreign invaders. The Peer Kho cave temple overlooking the Tawi river, the Panchbakhtar temple and the Ranbireshwar temple are the other well known Shiva temples in Jammu.
Each has its own legend, its devotees and specific days of worship. In Ranbireshwar Temple, there are twelve Shiva ‘lingams’ of crystal measuring 12" to 18" and galleries with thousands of ‘saligrams’ fixed on stone slabs. Other important temples in Jammu are the Lakshmi Narayan temple, Duda Dhari temple and the Panj Mandir in Gandhi Nagar. It is said that if the Bawey Wali Mata is the presiding deity of Jammu, the ‘durgah’ of Peer Budhan Ali Shah or Peer Baba as it is known, is the shrine that protects the people of this city from mishaps and evil spirits.
Peer Mitha is another famous Muslim shrine in Jammu. Peer Mitha was a contemporary of Ajaib Dev and Ghareeb Nath - both saints were famous for their prophecies and miracles. ‘Mitha’ means ‘the sweet one’, for the Peer would accept nothing more than a pinch of sugar in offering from his devotees.
Other places of worship
Christian
Muslim
Sikh
Forts and PalacesOn the opposite bank of the Tawi river, on an upland plateau, is situated the majestic Bahu Fort, the oldest edifice extant in the region. Looking at this fort one can imagine the wars fought, invasions prevented, and yes, even the grandeur the royal family must have enjoyed at the time. Today it is surrounded by a lush green terraced garden, with waterfalls and flowers of just about every kind and colour. It is a favourite picnic spot for the city folk.
The Amar Mahal Palace, a sight to behold, is on an eyrie overlooking the Tawi river. This grand palace, with sloping roofs and tall towers, so characteristic of continental castles, reminds one of France. The palace has been converted into a museum which also houses the city’s finest library of antique books and paintings. An entire series of miniatures on the epic Nal-Damayanti can be seen in the museum. Old Bazaars and Designer boutiques There are two charmingly contradictory aspects to the city of Jammu which one can see while shopping. For instance, in the crowded streets of Raghunath Bazaar, among the age-old dry fruit shops, you’ll find designer boutiques that display the very latest in fashion and fashion accessories. Here the main bazaars – Vir Marg, Raghunath Bazaar and Hari Market – are famous for Kashmiri handicrafts, traditional Dogra jewellery and various dry fruits, chiefly walnuts (‘akhrot’) and almonds. Jammu is also known for the superlative quality of its ‘basmati’ rice, ‘rajma’ (red beans), ‘ampapar’ (dried and candied mango peel), ‘anardana’ (dried pomegranate seeds) and ‘barfi’ (milk sweets). For purchasing authentic Kashmiri handicrafts, one can visit the J&K Government Arts Emporium near the Tourist Reception Centre on Residency Road. The emporium displays and sells a wide variety of handicrafts, including Pashmina shawls and exquisite hand-knotted carpets of silk and wool. Sightseeing Patnitop-Sanasar Circuit
About 112 kms from Jammu, the famous hill resort of Patnitop is perched on a beautiful plateau, at an altitude of 2024 m, across which the Jammu-Srinagar highway passes. Enveloped by thickly wooded forests, Patnitop offers beautiful picnic spots, peaceful walks and breathtaking views of the valley of the Chenab basin and the Pir Panjal range beyond. In winter (mid Dec. to mid Feb.), the resort is generally covered with snow, thus providing opportunities for arious winter sports including amateur skiing.
Further ahead, at a distance of about 19 Kms from Patnitop, is Sanasar (2079 m), a satellite resort of Patnitop, with a cup-shaped meadow surrounded by gigantic conifers. A place for a quiet holiday, the meadow has now been developed as a golf course.
There are several walks in the surrounding hills. The resort itself is ideal for paragliding, which is being promoted by the Tourism Department. Tourists with own vehicle can go on to Sansar from Patnitop and return by the evening. Accommodation & Facilities:
Batote Situated at about 125 kms from Jammu, on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, is the resort of Batote (1560m), straddling the forested slopes of the Patnitop mountain range and overlooking the spectacular Chenab gorge. Accommodation is available in J&K TDC’s 2-bed room huts at Rs.700/- and rooms in the Tourist Bungalow at Rs.300/- to Rs.350/- per day.
KudLocated 103 kms from Jammu, on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, this popular resort is situated at an altitude of 1738 m. Accommodation is available in the J&K TDC’s Tourist Bungalow-I and Tourist Bungalow–II. The tariff is Rs.350/- for a regular room and Rs.450/- for a VIP room in the Tourist Bungalow-I, while in Tourist Bungalow-II, a room costs Rs.300/-. In addition, a number of private hotels also offer various types of accommodation. (Refer to the Jammu Hotels List for details.)
Sudh MahadevThis holy spot near Patnitop is situated at an altitude of 1225 m, about 120 kms from Jammu. Pilgrims visit the shrine on the full moon night of 'sawan' (July-August) to worship the 'Trishul' (trident) and a mace, which are said to have belonged to Bheem, one of the five legendary Pandava brothers. The Devak stream originates at Sudh Mahadev and disappears among the rocks a few kilometres downstream. Accommodation is available in J&K TDC’s Tourist Complex at Rs.100/- per day for a double room, Rs.200/-per day for a 4-bedded room and Rs.15/- per head per day in the dormitory.
Gauri Kund
Some distance short of Sudh Mahadev is the legendary spring where the Goddess Parvati used to bathe before commencing her daily prayers at Sudh Mahadev. This spring came to be named after her as 'Gauri Kund'.
Mantalai
Situated a few kilometers further away from Sudh Mahadev, Mantalai is surrounded by lush deodar forests at an altitude of 2000 m. The place is associated with the legend of the marriage of Lord Shiva with the Goddess Parvati.
Mansar Lake
Situated 62 kms from Jammu, Mansar is a beautiful lake fringed by forest-covered hills, over a mile in length by half-a-mile in width. Besides being a popular excursion destination in Jammu, it is also a holy site, sharing the legend and sanctity of Lake Mansarovar. Newly weds consider it auspicious to perform three circumambulations (‘Parikarma’) around the lake to seek the blessings of Sheshnag, the lord of serpents, whose shrine is located on its eastern bank. There are also some ancient temples on the lake’s shores, which are visited by devotees in large numbers. Mansar is also ideal for boating for which the Tourism Department provides adequate facilities. For the convenience of visitors a well lit flagstone walkway has been laid all around the shores. The J&K TDC has excellent accommodation in its Tourist Complex and self-contained huts. The tariff is Rs.350/- per day for a double room, Rs.600/- per day for an air-conditioned suite and Rs.500/- per day for a 2-bed room hut. A Tourist Office has also been established at Mansar for providing information and assistance.
Surinsar Lake
This is a picturesque spot with a lake surrounded by wooded hills, situated 42 Kms away from Jammu. Shiv Khori
This holy cave is nearly a kilometre long and houses a 4 ft high, naturally formed ‘Shivling’. It is considered second only to the shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi in religious importance. There are stalactites and stalagmites dripping milky limestone water. Situated at a distance of about 100 kms from Jammu and about 75 kms from Katra, Shiv Khori hosts a major fair during the ‘Shivratri’ festival every year.
PurmandalAbout 40 kms from Jammu, just off the national highway leading towards Pathankot, is the Purmandal Temple Complex on the banks of the sacred and mostly underground Devak river. Often referred to as 'Chhota Kashi', its main temple is dedicated to 'Umapati', while the other temples worship Lord Shiva. These ancient temples are associated with the Shaivite Hindus of the Kashmir Valley. Regular bus service connects the town with Jammu. Accommodation is available in pilgrim ‘sarais’.
KrimchiKrimchi, site of three of the oldest temples of Jammu, can be reached by taking a short detour of about 20 kms along a side road that branches off from the National Highway 1-A, about 8 kms short of Udhampur. The architecture of the temples shows distinct Greek (Hellenic) influences. Some distance further ahead in the hills is Pancheri, a beautiful hill resort. Jajjar KotliOn the national highway leading towards Srinagar, is the Jajjar Kotli Tourist Complex, built on the banks of the Jajjar rivulet, 35 kms away from Jammu. The crystal clear, cool waters of Jajjar attract picnickers in large numbers during summer. The J&K TDC has a tourist cafeteria with a bar and a small tourist bungalow to provide facilities to the visitors here. AkhnoorSituated 32 kms to the west of Jammu, the historic town of Akhnoor is situated on the banks of the mighty Chenab river. This town is associated with the legendary love story of Soni-Mahiwal. Ruins of the Indus Valley civilisation are to be seen along the riverbank. Peer KhohPeer Khoh is a cave shrine located on the Circular Road, 3.5 kms from the heart of the town. There is a naturally formed Shiva lingam in the cave which is quite mysterious as neither its antiquity nor its cause are known. Legend has it that the cave leads underground to many other cave shrines and even out of the country. Ranbireshwar Temple
Located on Shalimar Road near the New Secretariat and built by Maharaja Ranbir Singh in 1883 AD, this historic temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It has one central 'lingam' measuring seven-and-a-half ft in height, twelve Shiva 'lingams' of crystal measuring from 15" to 38" and galleries with thousands of others carved on stone slabs. Raghunath Temple
Situated in the heart of the city and surrounded by a group of other temples, this temple, dedicated to Lord Rama, is outstanding and unique in northern India. Work on its construction was started by Maharaja Gulab Singh, founder of the principality of Jammu and Kashmir, in 1835 AD and was completed by his son, Maharaja Ranbir Singh, in 1860 AD. The inner walls of the main temple are covered with gold sheet on three sides. There are many galleries with innumerable 'saligrams'. The surrounding temples are dedicated to various Hindu deities from the epic Ramayana. Ranbir CanalA small garden along the Ranbir Canal, which runs through the city outskirts, provides a cool picnic spot during the summer. The canal branches off from the river Chenab at Akhnoor, 32 kms away. Its water remains icy-cold throughout the year and its banks serve as good viewpoints and walkways. Bahu Fort & GardensSituated 5 kms away from the city centre, Bahu Fort stands on a rock face on the left bank of the river Tawi.
Perhaps the oldest fort and edifice in the city, it was constructed originally by Raja Bahulochan over 3,000 years ago. The existing fort was more recently improved upon and extended by the Dogra rulers. Inside, there is a temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali. An extensive terraced garden, known as Bagh-e-Bahu, has been developed around the fort.
Behind the Civil Airport is the famous durgah of the Muslim saint, Peer Budhan Ali Shah. On Thursdays, Hindu and Sikh devotees who visit this shrine, vastly outnumber the Muslim devotees. Mahamaya Temple and City Forest On the bypass Road, behind Bahu Fort, the city forest surrounds the ancient Mahamaya temple overlooking the river Tawi. A small garden surrounded by acres of woods provides the best view of the city.
Mubarak Mandi Palace The oldest buildings in this palace complex date back to 1824. The architecture is a blend of Rajasthani, Mughal and even baroque elements. The most stunning segment is the Sheesh Mahal. "The Pink Hall" houses the Dogra Art Museum which has miniature paintings of the various Hill Schools.
Vasihnodeviji -KatraKatra Town, lying in the foot of Trikuta Mountains, 48 kms. from Jammu, serves as the base camp for visiting the famous shrine of Shri Mata Vaishno Devi, which is approachable on foot along a 13 kms long well laid footpath. Every year, more than 4.5 million pilgrims pass through Katra on their way to the holy shrine. The cave shrine of Mata Vasihnodeviji or Trikuta Bhagwati (alt: 5,200 ft.) has been a beacon of faith and fulfilment to millions of devotees from all over the world. The pilgrimage to the Shrine holds great significance for the pilgrims. The Legend of Mata Vaishnodeviji.
Everyday of the year throngs of people surge up the steep pathways that cut across the Trikuta hillsides for mile after mile. This show of faith is finely interwoven with the cultural strands of the Indian subcontinent, and these pathways have been trod on for many centuries now. Popular belief holds that anybody who walks the Himalayan trail to the goddesses's abode to ask for a boon rarely goes back disappointed. Whatever be it, a new enterprise or a forthcoming examination, marriage or birth, the devout look up to the Mata For blessings and guidance. There are many who journey year after year to pay obeisance regardless of their faith or belief, creed or class, caste or religion.
The Yatra to the holy shrine is as fascinating as the legend associated with it. It goes that thousands of years ago, a comely maiden called "Vaishnavi" have been created by the three lords attained human form and was a devotee of Lord Vishnu. Having taken a vow of celibacy, she spent almost all her life in meditation and prayers. In time she attained enormous spiritual powers and is believed to have extracted an assurance from Lord Rama that he will marry her in Kali-Yug if she persisted in her spiritual quest.
This is why she is also known as Adh Kanwari or the "eternal virgin". Mata Vaishno Devi established an ashram in the foothills of the Trikuta Mountain and began to meditate. As predicted by Lord Rama, her glory started spreading and people began to flock to her ashram to seek her blessings. As time passed, a Tantrik called Gorakh Nath (Demo God), who had a vision of the episode between Lord Rama and Mata Vaishno Devi, became curious and wanted to know more about her. Accordingly, he sent his most able disciple `Bhairon Nath' to find out. Bhairon Nath started observing her secretly and realized that despite being a `Sadhvi', she always carried a bow and arrows and was always surrounded by langoor (apes) and a ferocious looking lion. Bhairon, the demon God took a fancy to her. But the Mata spurned his advances and fled to the Himalayas to continue her spiritual quest.
On the way the goddess felt thirsty at Banganga and shot an arrow into the earth from where water gushed out. Charan Paduka, which is marked by the imprints of her feet, is the place where she rested. The Goddess then meditated in the cave at Adh Kanwari. It took Bhairon nine months to locate her, which is why the cave is known as Garbh Joon. When the demon found her, Mata Vaishno Devi blasted an opening at the other end of the cave with her trident and fled to the Holy cave at Darbar (temple). However, Bhairon was persistent and followed her there to harass her. Then goddess became very angry and assuming the form of Mata Kali, beheaded Bhairon outside the cave with the aid of the flying disc gifted to her by Lord Krishna The severed head of Bhairon fell at a distant hilltop. In his dying moments, Bhairon begged and received divine forgiveness from the goddess. Today, it is believed that the Yatra is not complete unless the pilgrim has been to Bhairon ka Mandir (2.6 km from the main sanctum) as well, after the darshan of Shri Mata Vaishno Devi.
The goddess herself took up permanent abode in a cave in the Trikuta Mountains by metamorphosing herself in to three pindis (Rock). This holy shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi is unique as it contains the holiest of holy Pindis manifesting the Mata in her three forms - Maha Kali, Maha Lakshmi and Maha Saraswati - each form representing a particular attribute. Maha Kali represents Tamas Guna, Tamas meaning darkness. In her manifestation of Kali the omnipotent, absolute and all pervasive, she is said to be beyond fear and finite existence and is therefore able to protect her devotees against fear and to give them limitless peace. Maha Lakshmi represents Rajas Guna, Rajas meaning prosperity. In this manifestation, the goddess blesses her devotees with wealth and prosperity for living a better life. Maha Saraswati represents Sattav Guna, Sattav meaning wisdom and knowledge. This manifestation enables her devotees to distinguish between good and bad and helps them to adopt the right path in life. The combination of these three attributes in a single Shakti is a unique combination, which is what makes it, revered all over the world. What to remember
Clothing Light woollens are required at night even during summer. During the remaining parts of the year heavy woollens are require. How to reach Jammu, 48 kms from Katra, is the nearest airport, railhead and inter-state bus terminus. Buses leave for Katra at 10 minute intervals between 5:30 a.m and 8:30 p.m. During peak season, additional buses are pressed into service.
Helicopter Service Pawan Hans operates two flights daily from Jammu and 5 flights from Katra to Shrine. For further information contact Pawan Hans Ltd at Jammu Airport. The distance from Katra town to Vaishno Devi (Durbar) is 13 kms, which has to be traversed by pony, ‘dandi’ or on foot. ‘Pithus’ (coolies) are also available. The Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board (SMV Shrine Board) runs a large number of cafeterias and viewing points along the trail between Katra and the shrine where snacks, coffee and cold drinks are provided to the yatris on a no-profit-no-loss basis. The Shrine Board also runs ‘bhojanalyas’ at Katra, Adhkawari, Sanji Chhat and at the Bhawan / shrine for providing hygienically prepared food to the yatris on a no-profit-no-loss basis. Upon reaching the Bhawan, a group number is allotted to the pilgrims at the slip (‘parchi’) counter against the yatra slip issued at Katra. The yatri is required to stand in queue at Gate Number 2 till the announcement of the group’s number is made to proceed to the sanctum sanctorum. While inside the cave, one should concentrate on the darshan of the mother goddess in her three-pindi forms – Maha Kali, Maha Lakshmi or Maha Vaishnavi and Maha Saraswati. The holy water coming from the feet of the Mata can be collected on the way back. Where to Stay in Katra At Katra accommodation to suite all pockets and preferences is available in hotels, guest houses, sarais, and hostels. The SMVD Shrine Board provides accommodation and other services en-route and near the Bhawan. The J&K TDC also offers furnished accommodation of various categories in its properties at Katra. Following is the list of various types of accommodation in the private sector at Katra: -
Places to visit from Katra Aghar Jitto Just 5 km away from Katra is Aghar Jitto, the Shrine of Baba Jitto, a devotee of Mata Vaishno Devi and a revolutionary who led a campaign against the feudal order. According to legends, a dip in the holy spring water, flowing in front of the shrine, does miracles to pre-natal women for safe delivery of children. A path from here leads to Shri Mata Vaishno Devi.
Dera Baba Banda: At about 30 kms from Katra lies this major Hindu-Sikh pilgrimage centre. Baba Banda Bairaagi was Guru Gobind Singh's favourite 'Saint-soldier', who had the gurudwara constructed on the banks of river Chenab, where he spent his last days.
Baba Dhansar
Located 10 kms from Katra (1 km on foot) is Baba Dhansar, a beautiful and cool picnic spot. Here, a huge spring gushes out of the mountainside in a thick grove of trees and forms a number of small waterfalls before flowing into the holy Banganga. Next to the spring in a small grove in the rock face is a naturally formed ‘Shivling’ on which droplets of water fall naturally all the year round. A major ‘mela’ (fair) is held here during Shivratri. Shiv KhoriThis holy cave is nearly a kilometre long and houses a 4 ft high, naturally formed ‘Shivling’. It is considered second only to the shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi in religious importance. There are stalactites & stalagmites dripping milky limestone water from the ceiling. Situated at a distance of about 100 kms from Jammu and about 75 kms from Katra, Shiv Khori hosts a major fair on Shivratri day every year.
ShoppingShopping in Jammu shares a charmingly contradictory aspects where among the age-old dry fruit shops, you’ll find designer boutiques that display the very latest in fashion and fashion accessories. Here the main bazaars – Vir Marg, Raghunath Bazaar and Hari Market – are famous for Kashmiri handicrafts, traditional Dogra jewellery and various dry fruits, chiefly walnuts (‘akhrot’) and almonds. Jammu is also known for the superlative quality of its ‘basmati’ rice, ‘rajma’ (red beans), ‘ampapar’ (dried and candied mango peel), ‘anardana’ (dried pomegranate seeds) and ‘barfi’ (milk sweets). For purchasing authentic Kashmiri handicrafts, one can visit the J&K Government Arts Emporium near the Tourist Reception Centre on Residency Road. The emporium displays and sells a wide variety of handicrafts, including Pashmina shawls and exquisite hand-knotted carpets of silk and wool. |
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